Rahel Stephanie’s culinary guide to Jakarta

I was born in Jakarta, and by growing up here I say I was raised in chaos: Jakarta is the very definition of chaos as a city. When I moved to London 11 years ago I was completely unfazed by the noise and the hecticness. Friends would ask, “How are you so conditioned to this?” I’d say, “I’m a Jakarta girl.”

My mom, sister and I left Jakarta for Singapore when I was nine, but we’d go back every few months. It’s a bittersweet relationship: I love Jakarta; I’m proud to come from here; however, when I visit I’m confronted with cultural differences and, as a city, it can feel quite transactional – though I guess that’s normal for a capital city. But there are so many other things I love: the food, the art, the music… the food. Everything we do here, all our activities – almost all of it goes hand in hand with a meal or a snack. 

In central Jakarta, where my family lives, there’s a cart called Bubur Ayam H Jewo that I’ve been going to for rice porridge since I was a kid. It’s an amazing place because it’s right outside Cut Meutia Mosque, named after a national heroine who took part in the struggle against the Dutch colony. Every time I return, this is the place I head the morning after my arrival. 

It’s almost cheating to say that Indonesian food is your favourite cuisine: Indonesia is an expansive country made up of more than 17,000 islands and hundreds of ethnicities. That diversity is naturally reflected in our food. A must-do dining experience is Padang, a regional cuisine from West Sumatra where lots of dishes – fragrant curries, sweet sauces and fried fish doused in spicy sambal – are served like a mini buffet. People from Padang are known as some of the most entrepreneurial Indonesians, so their eateries are widespread. The restaurant most favoured by Jakartans is probably Pagi Sore, but my friend Sabrina, who is of Padang descent, prefers Nasi Kapau Sutan Mangkuto – it’s incredible. 

I’m ethnically Batak, which is from North Sumatra. We have lots of native spices – Andaliman has been compared to Sichuan peppercorn because of its numbing effect – and one of my favourite dishes is turmeric-spiced buffalo cheese… kind of like an Indonesian burrata. Toba Tabo Lapo Batak in Setiabudi serves traditional Batak fare in a colourful environment with music, an important element of my ethnicity’s culture. A lot of people in Indonesia are like, “Oh yeah, Batak people are the most ‘lit’ ethnicity.” We love a party.

Jakarta can be quite polluted. Pedesaan Farm, an accommodation a couple of hours’ drive away, is set in a desa (village) and is run by two friends. You can really experience slow village life there, and you’re so close to nature; it’s attached to an organic farm. There’s not much opportunity for relaxation in the city itself, but Kota Tua, meaning “old town”, is based on Dutch urban planning and has several blocks separated by canals. There’s a lovely square to walk around, and Kopi Es Tak Kie, a favourite spot for coffee, is nearby. My preferred mode of transport is the gojek, a motorbike taxi. 

You’ll see a lot of loud luxury and exuberant displays of wealth in Jakarta. I don’t subscribe to that. Pasar Santa is an alternative market for thrifting clothes and records. There’s a bookstore called Post, which is set up like a living room and has the most beautiful books and zines. Lokaholik, which serves gorgeous cocktails, and Coffeebeerian (coffee and beer) are also close by. I love having a sour beer made from local fruits. 

Outside of cooking, I DJ. My sets are often inspired by Indonesia’s cuisine and culture – and how both go hand in hand. In a city like Jakarta, there’s a fine line between authentic subculture and duplicating subcultures for commercial success: you can tell a lot of places are just trying to be a club in London. Two of my favourite rave collectives are Club Vixxxen and Swanky Express. They change venues, but the ones I’ve been to have been amazing. 

Being a majority Muslim country, Indonesia’s drinking culture isn’t rife, but people don’t need alcohol to have fun; they’re still out. As soon as the party stops, the first question will always be: so where are we going for food?