Mary Katrantzou show report SS16 London Fashion Week

It’s a rare show note that makes you reach for the dictionary, but at Mary Katrantzou I was quickly flummoxed: “godets of prints”, “matelasse” and “flammarion” engraving were all quoted as features of her stellar SS16 collection.

A godet, as it happens, is an insert of fabric used to add volume to a skirt, or in this case pretty folkloric dresses with a Mittel flavour that were woven together in a patchwork of patterns.

This show was about the dress: some trapezoid with heavy Spanish ruffles, some iridescent in matelasse, a quilt-stitch effect that sparkled in a rainbow of metallics in the light. Others were made in lace, which was woven as ribbons into wool or pinstripe, or embroidered with beadwork that seemed to breeze over scarf-draped tops. There were sequinned dresses, dresses with a rose motif, and dresses laced with mirrored panels.

Each were a wonder of technical skill, craftsmanship and dexterity. All were sublimely pretty. Many were very short. One can only imagine a slightly more demure length will follow in the commercial line — Katrantzou is an excellent merchandiser and saleswoman, she must know that the more modest sleeveless vest tunics, worn with pleat trousers, would be a sad compromise for fans of her multi-layered design.

This collection was visually thrilling. And, for all the verbosity of its description, quite simply very pretty.

For more reports from the shows, go to our fashion weeks page on the FT web app, or visit our London Collections Women SS16 fashion weeks hub on


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