FeatureWomenswear Autumn/Winter 2019 showsOur guide to the best of the new season’s collections Fendi couture review AW19: Karl Lagerfeld, emperors, new clothesIn Rome, the LVMH brand stages a lavish homage to the late designerCouture AW19: technical mastery — and flashes of magicParis brought a bravura display of skillmanship, but soul was harder to findThe 14 most talked about shows of the seasonFrom tears at Chanel to perfection at Loewe, AW19 was a month to rememberDon’t like what you see? Louis Vuitton’s AW19 collection courted controversyNicolas Ghesquière wanted his Pompidou collection to be challenging. He succeededChanel AW19 — Karl Lagerfeld’s last showFor his final Chanel outing, the late designer took us to a snowy mountain-topAlexander McQueen AW19 — the billion-dollar-brand plan starts to bloomSarah Burton’s homage to British manufacturing was one for the suitsMore from this SeriesGarden variety: Givenchy and Stella McCartney AW19 show reportsClare Waight Keller delivered a winter Eden. Stella McCartney gave us the kit in which to weedEverything’s coming up roses: Valentino AW19 show reportFashion’s current favourite designer was feeling romantic. But was his latest bouquet a woo too far?Balenciaga’s brilliant ‘street’ wear looked like everything — and nothing — you’ve seen beforeBalenciaga and Hermès AW19 show reportsRock chick to chic: Celine AW19 show reportHedi Slimane did a turnabout for his second collection — and staged a great show steeped in Seventies bourgeois nostalgiaPuig gambles on the unknown — Nina Ricci AW19 show reportCould the appointment of two almost unheard of designers make the brand bankable?The loveliness of Loewe AW19 — the best show so far“Two-jobs” Jonathan Anderson has advanced his claim to be the most exciting designer of the seasonRick Owens AW19 show was busy with references and brilliantly his ownThe Rick-y horror showHow fashion tripped over the hip-hop economyBlack celebrities have been key in building the fortunes of luxury houses. So why are brands still so racially insensitive?From refugee camp to runway — AW19 break-out starsMore inclusive than any season before, the models on the catwalks are as diverse as the clothesFor AW19: Chloé goes riding, Dries Van Noten gardens, Jacquemus goes to market and Paco Rabanne brightens the dayIn Paris, designers indulged their private passions — to great effectMastery at Maison Margiela, and a riddle at new-look Lanvin: AW19 show reportsJohn Galliano did pared-down perfection, and another new name at LanvinSaint Laurent powers on — Marine Serre takes shelter: AW19 show reportsAnthony Vaccarello showed us the shoulder, Marine Serre saw the end of the world. Both were brilliantly on brandMilan Fashion Week trend — the big boot rebootBovver, biker and a whole lot of knee-high attitude, Italy goes hell for leatherDior AW19 report: girl power for the EverywomanMaria Grazia Chiuri married Teddy Girls and classic Dior silhouettes this season. Was it a happy union?Versace and Dolce & Gabbana AW19 show report: smells like clean spiritGrunge influences, anger and bovver boots were major themes in Milan, the city of high glamour. Why?For Armani AW19, the 84-year-old maestro’s got the bluesNow the most venerable designer still working, Giorgio Armani’s show was a tonal homage to his signature styleIs the new Bottega Veneta like the old Celine?Daniel Lee showed his first AW19 collection for the Kering-owned house on Friday. It was tougher than expectedPrada AW19 report: every rose has its thornMiuccia Prada’s darkly dressed woman looked emphatically feminine — and royally pissed offKarl Lagerfeld’s final Fendi show, and some poetic puffa jackets at MonclerAfter a 50-year relationship at the family-led house, the late designer’s last outing had his signature all over it
