FT Series Womenswear Spring/Summer 2019 shows Our guide to the best of the new season’s collections The 16 best suits at Paris Fashion WeekTailoring was the story of the season in the French capital. Whether it’s square, soft, dropped or samurai, it’s time to show them some shoulderFashion’s new balance of powerAt Louis Vuitton, the male wardrobe is refitted for a gender-fluid worldGraphic content: Peter Saville returns to fashionThe legendary Factory Records designer finds himself in demand from a new generationA shore investment: why luxury brands are headed to the beachChanel dives in to beachwear — Alexander McQueen is fighting fitWhen a designer is also a friendAt Sacai, Stella McCartney and Hermès, female creative directors close in on what women really wantValentino delivers the most beautiful show of the seasonPierpaolo Piccioli and Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller find new freedoms via coutureMore from this SeriesThe season’s most talked-about show: Celine by Hedi SlimaneWhip-thin tailoring and crotch-skimming cocktail dresses were 100% HediHow to stay in the present: Balenciaga SS19 show reportDemna Gvasalia thinks he knows how to sell tailoring to millennials. Make it feel like a ‘tracksuit’ to wearComme des Garçons SS19 show reportRei Kawakubo was ‘fumbling around in the dark’ this season. And the result was incredibly movingFeel the burn: fashion for mind and bodyLoewe and Rick Owens stretched the head. Off-White stretched the legs. And Balmain stretched credulityThe best of Paris Fashion Week SS19Celine’s new era and the most beautiful show of the season — all the highlights from ParisMilan Fashion Week trends SS19Zesty or sensible? The Italian luxury houses offered dramatically different takes on spring/summer styleChloé, Atlein, Paco Rabanne — clothes to crush onThe best designers make you want to join their gangMaison Margiela and Dries van Noten — what’s normal anyway?John Galliano and Dries Van Noten embraced new identities — and freedomsBattle of the brands: who owns rock-star chic now that Slimane’s back in town?Paris Fashion Week — Saint Laurent SS19 show reportAfter a pas de Dior and Gucci theatrics, do the clothes really matter?At the first shows of Paris SS19, the emphasis was on the spectacularMarni and Dolce & Gabbana show report SS19Dolce & Gabbana’s real power? It’s in the genesSalvatore Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli and Agnona SS19 show report: the big shortAt the Italian houses, the brand reboot continuesCan Benetton’s colourful past help secure its future?The Italian brand is plotting a revival with archive designs — and the return of its foundersSticking to your brand codes can be good — and bad — for businessMilan Fashion Week: Prada, Emporio Armani SS19 show reportThe best of Milan Fashion Week SS19Prada finds its mojo and Fendi loses its logo — all the highlights from MilanMax Mara, Fendi SS19 show report: battle of the brownsThe first collections at Milan Fashion Week were stuck in neutral — and that’s no bad thingThe biggest trends of London Fashion Week SS19Brexit may be looming but the capital’s designers weren’t playing it safeLondon SS19 round-up: why British fashion is worth the investmentThere may be trouble ahead, but the London collections were bold, brave and beautifulRiccardo Tisci’s new vision for Burberry checked all the boxes — and then someBurberry SS19 London Fashion Week show reportTo trend or not to trend: London is lit up in neon — and hatsRoksanda, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Rejina Pyo SS19 reportIf shoes are the symbol of resistance, let’s call time on the stilettoNicholas Kirkwood, Simone Rocha, Margaret Howell, Roland Mouret SS19 report: London Fashion WeekLondon Fashion Week SS19 highlightsFrom Alexa Chung’s fashion schedule debut, delectable footwear collaborations, and mega anniversary shows, London had a lot to offerVictoria Beckham’s 10th anniversary homecoming was all businessVictoria Beckham SS19 show report: London Fashion WeekLondon Fashion Week poses a question — what is fashion anyway?Alexa Chung, JW Anderson, Michael Halpern, Molly Goddard SS19 show reportNew York Fashion Week round-up: fury makes way for funAfter a stormy few seasons, fashion is looking on the bright side again. Even ‘Jaws’ is looking jollyThe biggest trends of New York Fashion Week SS19Despite the gloomy weather at the shows, the fashion forecast for next season was optimistically brightItalians do it better — the original concept store arrives in New YorkCan 10 Corso Como help to revitalise Manhattan’s downtown?Michael Kors SS19 show report: a dazzling display of optimismThe designer brought joy to his catwalk like a man with a rainbow-powered drillCoach SS19 show report: where the Aristocat is kingDisney meets Burning Man in a sandblown desert fantasyCalvin Klein SS19 show report: lots of Jaws — little to chew onRaf Simons’ show was cleverly uncomplicated and highly commercialNew York Fashion Week SS19 highlightsCult tees at Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta loosens up — the best bits of September’s showsEscada, DVF SS19 show report: in New York, a sleeping giant stirsCan a new team re-establish a quintessential Eighties brand?Ralph Lauren SS19 show report: a brand at 50, forever in blue jeansA star-studded show in Central Park marked a New York moment that even New Yorkers were impressed by
