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‘I fell on the pig-head fritti the second the plate hit the bar, bursting with boiling, fatty, cartilaginous oozings’
They’re serving fish landed at their door by local boats, and they’re doing it brilliantly
Hideaki Yoshiyama has taken this stretched and battered foodway and reconstructed it with the kind of rigour I find irresistible
The rise of Modern British cuisine with Tim Hayward, and cocktail tips with NY bartender Shannon Mustipher
Long-simmering squabbles, torturous travel and turkey with ‘all the trimmings’ are just the start
Tim Hayward selects his must-read titles
‘I look at the combination of inventiveness, skill, knowledge and margin control and I want to let out a little cheer’
‘It takes work to reduce top-level ingredients to the sort of canapé offered at an underfunded book launch’
‘Modern British’, however you define it, is now one of the most eclectic cuisines in the world
The Scottish inn with fine dining and a farm-to-fork menu
Cut smoked pork sausage into chunks with Emmental, pickles and an astringent dressing and call it a salad. It’s fiendish genius
‘Goethe thought architecture was music, frozen; Silverton proves that meatballs are beatitude, minced’
Duck breast, pan-fried then rested to the point of coma, was served with spectacular potato cake
Once ‘meat’ can be manufactured convincingly, those who own the IP will want you to consume much more of it
‘I obviously wasn’t going to resist fat strips of crisp grilled pork belly with peperonata and ’nduja aioli, in heroic portions. I mean, who could?’
‘The subtlety, the cleverness, the profound feeling for ingredients — Hall-McCarron has them all’
Some restaurateurs are in better position now than they were before the pandemic
‘As I sat, consuming Neil Forbes’ superb cooking, I realised that most of my Desert Island chefs are Scots’
‘Things will get messy. There will be flirtation, staring out to sea, gossip traded, reputations traduced’
‘Never, ever paint the inside of a dining area blue . . . The fritto misto was actually very good but had trouble asserting itself visually in the gloom’
‘A small but gracefully formed restaurant specialising in Basque cooking. They know exactly what they’re doing so they can do it with élan’
‘The pâté aux herbes tastes as light, fresh and fragrant as Nigel Slater’s window box’
There is no way of knowing how much creatures suffer when they are so physiologically different to us
‘It is lovely to step aside from the noise and confusion of social dining and concentrate on something’
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