Inside the world of pantry porn
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
On the off chance I ever meet Victoria Beckham, Natalie Massenet or Gwyneth Paltrow, I already have the perfect talking point picked out – their pantries. Have you seen them? Row upon regimented row of condiments, canisters and Kilner jars in temples to a higher order.
I do not own a pantry room. But I do have cupboards and drawers and a modern-day larder (in the form of a refrigerator). Surely with some pointers, and a little discipline, mine could look every bit as inviting as theirs.
For “pantry perfectionists” Clea Shearer and Joanna Teplin of US phenomenon The Home Edit, a well-organised cupboard is not just for aesthetics, it can also be a money-saver, time-saver and sanity-saver as you waste less, buy less and make everything easier to access. The pair have worked with clients including Paltrow, Rachel Zoe and Busy Philipps, and their book The Home Edit Life (Mitchell Beazley) is a fantastic primer on how to Mary Poppins your kitchen.
All plans of action begin with a stock take – not just of what products you have and what needs to be thrown out. But also of the space itself, its dimensions and your actual needs. What do you use on a daily basis (and what should be closest to hand)? Caroline Caron Dhaouadi of London-based professional organisers Homefulness says that taking a full inventory can often be a wake-up call for those who are repeat offenders: “One client had almost 50 kitchen rolls.” When clients only have cupboard space (rather than pantry rooms or standalone units), she urges a good hard look at how that space is being used: “Decide if the contents of each cupboard or drawer need to be in the kitchen,” she says. “Some people have a cupboard full of cold and flu medication. If they only use that once a year, can that move elsewhere?”
Another important question is how much you want – or can be bothered – to decant food into containers. Either way, grouping food (in or out of their packets) in “zones” is crucial. Everyone takes pleasure in beautiful containers. But function is (usually) more important than form, so remember some containers stack better than others; some are easier to pour from; and transparent vessels mean you not only see what’s in them but also the levels remaining. Standard containers from the same range – such as the clear acrylic boxes Dhaouadi sources from iDesign – are most versatile, particularly if you want to use them interchangeably in similarly organised spaces elsewhere.
As for labelling: “The more people in a household – and that includes housekeepers and cooks – the greater the need for labels,” says Dhaouadi. I like embossed labels as produced on the classic Dymo label maker, as does home renovation influencer Rosie Birkett (@homeandgardenbythesea) who has used them on stackable tubs from catering equipment supplier Nisbets. For an easier option, she suggests doing what the catering industry does and using “masking tape, which you can write on with a Sharpie”.
As for the fridge, Dhaouadi suggests not “micro-organising” into zones, as most fridges are divided into sections anyway. Another useful principle is recognising that some items don’t even belong in the fridge. Eggs, for example, are best stored on the counter, perhaps in the splendid 18th-century-inspired oak rack from Berdoulat (£90).
On my wishlist is a Lazy Susan (the Snurrad, £29, from Ikea) to house the myriad jars in my fridge that would allow me to access my pickles and jams with one easy rotation. I’m also considering the rolling can drawer (£17.99, from Caeeker) that feeds you beers like a drinks dispenser. Useful and fun.
But, in general, I’d resist going overboard. Nigella Lawson’s walk-in pantry is a good benchmark. Shallow shelves mean that she can see everything clearly, but nothing seems to be decanted or fussily arranged. There must be some organising principle but the place looks more like Aladdin’s Cave, teeming with packets and treats. For me, that’s the best invitation to cook.
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