In 1905, May Sutton, Wimbledon’s first overseas champion, caused a stir at the ladies’ singles final. Her crime? Rolling back her sleeves to reveal her forearms. The quarrel sparked a much-needed rethink on Victorian sportswear, which had previously required women to play in corsets and floor-length bustle skirts. (Men, meanwhile, were lumbered with weighty flannel suits.)

Since then, controversial fashion choices have become a staple of professional tennis: 1920s champion Suzanne Lenglen pioneered flapper flair; Gertrude Moran defined ’49 Wimbledon with a pair of lace-trimmed briefs; and Serena Williams rocked the 2018 US Open in a tutu. Even strait-laced Roger Federer has tickled headlines in his Anna Wintour-approved apparel.

Tory Burch tennis warm-up jacket, £31
Tory Burch tennis warm-up jacket, £310

It was this “illustrious sartorial heritage” that inspired digital marketing CEO Laura Ward to launch Exeat, a “haute” athleisure brand specialising in sustainable fabrics, tailored silhouettes and sculpted, hyperflex seams. The aim is to create comfortable kit that will enhance the “pleasure of play”, she says, but still with the style credentials that the sport has become famous for. Exeat’s first, 12-piece collection, which launches just in time for Wimbledon, includes a high-rise pleated skirt (£155) and two dresses — one based on a style worn by Grace Kelly (£265), the other inspired by 1920s sailor dresses (£280).

L’Etoile Sport tennis dress, £290, net-a-porter.com
L’Etoile Sport tennis dress, £290, net-a-porter.com
Exeat Nelson dress, £280
Exeat Nelson dress, £280

Interest in tennis has risen exponentially over the past year, with the Lawn Tennis Association reporting a 372 per cent surge in participation from 2019 to 2020. To cater to this, brands are increasingly offering sportswear lines that deliver form and function. “We have noticed a growing interest towards outdoor and specialised sports – including tennis,” affirms Net-a-Porter’s senior market editor Libby Page, highlighting lines by Tory Burch, swimwear-inspired Marysia and retro style L’Etoile Sport. Also new to the retailer is Portland-based brand Full Court, whose vibrant, moisture-wicking designs were launched as an alternative to the once “lacklustre women’s gear”.

Marysia Sportclean Bianca dress, $399

For men, The Woolmark Company has collaborated on a five-piece collection with AMC, the tennis line created by Andy Murray and premium sportswear brand Castore. Spanning shirts, shorts and jackets, the mostly white capsule (from £60) has been cut from a lightweight merino wool blend — a first of its kind in sportswear that promises unrivalled breathability and softness. “For me, the technical performance is vital,” says Murray, who will appear in the collection throughout next week’s tournament. Elsewhere, a decidedly different collaboration comes from MSGM and Fila, where a revamped archival pattern of brightly coloured marbles makes for a lively collection (from £10 for a headband) inspired by legendary Italian tennis star Lea Pericoli.

Lacoste L20 tennis racket, £260
Lacoste L20 tennis racket, £260
AMC x Woolmark performance T-shirt, £60

But who can do court-wear better than Lacoste, the heritage brand founded by seven-time Grand Slam title winner René Lacoste? As of this month, the house has launched its new L20 racket (£260), a teal-striped design complete with anti-vibration technology and a chevron-print clothing capsule to match. No promises that it will pass on Williams’s serve, but it will certainly turn heads on court.

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