Mary Katrantzou AW16 show report London Fashion Week

The patch jacket has been a recurring theme this season, already seen at Tommy Hilfiger, Coach and Marc Jacobs, where the jacket has woven together different threads of Americana from Southern Gothic to South Pacific.

At Mary Katrantzou, the theme was rodeo and the references drawn from the cinematic Technicolor of Baz Luhrman’s Romeo + Juliet, Natural Born Killers and Wild at Heart. Throw in a princess and a bit of Prokofiev and here was “an old tale of boy meets girl”, all stitched up with star, heart and horse motifs.

The collection was colourful, bright and arresting, multicoloured “fantastic furs” in mink on goat, lace inset dresses interwoven with “hellfire” and “eagle” motifs and Swarovski embellishments. Ballerina tulles were micro-pleated and gathered at the shoulder.

It was very pretty. Very accomplished. Very much like Miu Miu SS11, which offered looks for an urban cowgirl and the same starry insignias, or indeed the last Miu Miu resort collection which had the similar houndstooth jackets with leather and snakeskin appliqué. It may seem churlish to dwell on comparisons when so many other shows reflect the themes of others. But here it was especially close.

Fortunately, she lassoed the looks back from further comparison with the bounty of full-length embroidered dresses that closed the collection.


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