FT SeriesWomenswear Autumn/Winter 2020 showsOur guide to the best of the new season’s collectionsWithout Karl, can Chanel find its voice?Once the talk of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel now speaks only in whispersAt Paris Fashion Week, it’s go big or go homeThe chasm between the big brands and the small independents has rarely been more starkIn Paris, mad clothes for mad times, plus a little Kanye WestThe singer dropped in on Paris with his Sunday Service gospel choir, while Balenciaga showed clothes for doomsdayDespite coronavirus, the Paris fashion shows went on — just with face masksParis designers showed collections for surviving or transcending the apocalypseMeet Kenneth Ize — the Nigerian designer making his Paris Fashion Week debutThe LVMH Prize nominee is dedicated to preserving African craft and heritageWhat’s ailing American fashion?US designers have missed out on the post-recessionary boom that has propelled European luxury houses to record sales. At New York Fashion Week, the question was: What now?More from this SeriesAt Prada, it is business not as usualMiuccia Prada turned out clothes for power dressers as the brand declined to comment on succession rumoursWhy US designers are migrating to LAThe West Coast has movie moguls, the East Coast has editors. But which US city is the home of American fashion?The surprise trend of fashion week? BridesWhite dresses and veils made unexpected appearances at several London Fashion Week showsCeline does retro rock chicDesigner Hedi Slimane continues his journey back to the SeventiesAs Dior melds feminism and fashion, Saint Laurent offers latex leggingsThe multibillion-euro labels flexed their brand power with lavish shows in ParisIn Milan, it was ‘it’ bags versus the coronavirusIn the final days of fashion week, Daniel Lee added more fuel to Bottega Veneta’s growth engine, while Armani cancelled his show on account of the virusA new kind of magic at Kenzo Ahead of Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s first show for the storied brand, there’s a new mood — and a new logo The bright young things at London Fashion WeekThe London schedule was brimming with more young designers and talent than ever before — and the mood was one of celebrationPrada, Jil Sander, Moncler: The right clothes for right nowIn a climate emergency, to show anything other than timeless, long-lasting clothes seems out of touchGucci’s Michele takes the fashion crowd behind the seamsThe designer turned backstage preparation into the show itself — and the effect was magicalBritish fashion casts off its post-Brexit bluesAfter the puritanical restraint of New York, the sexy, colourful collections packed into London Fashion Week were a welcome jolt of joyStreetwear is ‘not finished’, says Burberry’s Riccardo TisciThe British brand’s London Fashion Week show was light on luxury sportswear — but not because its creative director doesn’t believe trainers and tracksuits won’t sellVictoria Beckham stages a ‘gentle rebellion’ at London Fashion WeekThe muted tones and conservative cuts of the designer’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection had clear commercial appealTom Ford draws the stars, plus Jeff Bezos, in LAThe designer’s Autumn/Winter 2020 fashion show left designers in New York Fashion Week gnashing their teeth
