Nicholas Lander, Restaurant Insider

More from this Series

• Ampéli, London: ‘taking a brave step’ — restaurant review

  With an all-Greek wine list, restaurateur Jenny Pagoni makes a distinctive impact on the London scene

  
• Sunda, Melbourne: ‘The food is astonishingly good’ — restaurant review

  Chef Khanh Nguyen’s palate is particularly attuned to desserts and, happily, we ordered all three

  
• Le Comptoir Robuchon, London: ‘a fitting tribute to the late great chef’ — restaurant review

  ‘This will instantly appeal to anyone who ever tasted Joël Robuchon’s food — or appreciates the flavours of well-executed French cooking’

  
• Nicholas Lander’s verdict on Davies and Brook, Daniel Humm’s first London restaurant

  Can the Swiss chef replicate the success of New York’s Eleven Madison Park?

  
• Nicholas Lander’s best restaurants of 2019

  ‘In 2020, restaurateurs must offer the hospitality many of us crave’

  
• Kāwi, New York: ‘the appeal of a tried-and-tested chef’— restaurant review

  ‘Yesterday’s stinky soybean stew’ — spiced pork belly with soyabeans — was lip-smackingly delicious

  
• La Piquette, Washington, DC: ‘very French and highly enjoyable’ — restaurant review

  ‘The large menu reads like something from your all-time favourite bistro’

  
• Wild Honey St James, London: ‘a particular cross-Channel style of cooking’ — restaurant review

  ‘The bouillabaisse is really four dishes — the fish, the soup, the rouille and the bread. It scarcely fits on the table’

  
• Daniel Berlin, Sweden: ‘An ambitious showcase for the chef’s talent’ — restaurant review

  A lavish set menu in a Swedish village features 17 exceptional courses

  
• Bo Tree Kitchen, Belfast: ‘the most unlikely restaurateur I have ever met’ — restaurant review

  An unusual collaboration has created a resoundingly successful Thai restaurant

  
• Kikuchi, London: ‘fulfils most of the criteria for my ideal sushi restaurant’ — review

  ‘I requested a seat at the counter to watch these chefs in action’

  
• Petit Comitè, Barcelona: ‘I left feeling very happy indeed’ — restaurant review

  ‘The bone marrow and steak tartare would be a fitting candidate for my Desert Island dish’

  
• Le Chambard, Alsace, France: ‘some fantastic dishes’ — restaurant review

  Anyone who finds French cooking predictable will have their eyes opened by this Michelin two-star in Alsace

  
• The Little Chartroom & Fhior, Edinburgh: ‘plenty of fascinating ingredients’ — restaurant review

  Nicholas Lander discovers some great scran at two new spots in the Scottish capital

  
• Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, Port Isaac, Cornwall: ‘Fish cooking with finesse’ — restaurant review

  Lobster, crab and cured brill — Britain’s freshest seafood

  
• Benedicts, Norwich: ‘an integral part of this elegant city’ — restaurant review

  It’s prime asparagus season: take full advantage of this all too temporary treat

  
• Le Soufflot, Côte d’Or: ‘best priced wines in France’ — restaurant review

  The food menu comprises two pages, the wine list 22

  
• Serasé, Seoul, ‘lives up to its extremely smart location’ — restaurant review

  ‘The pumpkin porridge had far greater charm than its name suggested’

  
• Caractère, London: ‘expert precision’ — restaurant review

  ‘‘Emily Roux combines the essential criteria for a restaurateur — a love of food, wine and people’

  
• Bon Bon, Brussels: ‘a tour de force’ — restaurant review

  ‘While displaying sophisticated technique, the chef never conveyed the idea he took himself too seriously’

  
• Amarante, Paris: ‘cuisine and wine at its best’ — restaurant review

  ‘My late father, who told me never to trust a skinny chef, would have felt we were in expert hands’

  
• Imperial Treasure, London: ‘a sense of value is missing’ — restaurant review

  The London branch of a luxe Chinese restaurant group fails to impress Nicholas Lander

  
• The Restaurant at The Yeatman and A Marisqueira de Matosinhos, Porto — reviews

  ‘The first comes highly recommended for dinner while the latter provides a meal with a decidedly local flavour’

  
• Soogil, New York: ‘nuanced Korean in the East Village’ — review

  ‘The 11-course tasting menu justified everything we had heard about the restaurant’

  
• The Chairman and Deng G, Hong Kong: ‘Sichuan cooking as good as this is addictive’ — restaurant review

  ‘A glass of suanmeitang — sour plum juice — is the traditional Chinese antidote to a throat on fire’

  
• Nicholas Lander’s best restaurants of the year

  From Guy Savoy in Paris to Angela’s in Margate, our critic’s culinary highlights of 2018

  
• Frenchette, New York, review – ‘a confident menu; well executed’

  Nicholas Lander enjoys dinner and lunch at the much-discussed Tribeca restaurant

  
• Review: Tast, Pep Guardiola’s new restaurant in Manchester

  ‘This latest foray reveals his love of good Catalan food and wine but the space lacks excitement’

  
• Inver, Scotland – luscious crab on the shores of Loch Fyne

  ‘This is not crazed foraging but a thoughtful use of the best local ingredients’

  
• Kerridge’s Bar & Grill review – ‘the kind of warmth and service that could be described as smart pub’

  Nicholas Lander on Michelin-star-winning chef Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant

  
• Kin + Deum, London Bridge, London — restaurant review

  ‘The Massaman chicken curry had lots of colour, lots of chicken and a sauce flowing with coconut milk, red chillies and cashew nuts’

  
• Nicholas Lander on Castell Peralada Restaurant in Girona, Spain

  ‘A dish described as a “liquid summer salad with basil and olives” seemed pure El Bulli’

  
• Guy Savoy, one of Paris’s most luxurious restaurants — Nicholas Lander

  ‘The boned skate wing with caviar looks so generous it could be called caviar with skate’

  
• Nicholas Lander on Tokimeité restaurant, London

  ‘The tempura came with a dipping sauce so alluring that we refused to give it up’

  
• Nicholas Lander explores the west coast of Ireland

  ‘Galway might be the world’s most attractive city in which to be a restaurateur’

  
• Nicholas Lander on Le Noailles restaurant in Bordeaux

  ‘Was it their policy not to charge for champagne?’